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DAINTY DISHES 
FROM FOREIGN LANDS 



Dainty Dishes 

From Foreign Lands 



BY 

LOUISE RICE 

Author of "Practical Graphology" etc., etc. 



THE LIBRARY SHELF 

850-854 McCLURG BUILDING 

CHICAGO. U. S. A. 

1909 



*<** 

& 



Copyright, 1909 

BY THE LIBRAKY SHELF 



All rights reserved 



• . • 



CC1.A283058 



CONTENTS 



Chapter I. 

Chapter II. 

Chapter III. 

Chapter IV. 

Chapter V. 

Chapter VI. 

Chapter VII. 

Chapter VIII. 

Chapter IX. 

Chapter X. 



Page 
The Book's Reason for 
Existence 7 

The Salads of Italy 10 

The Italian Pastes 16 

Some Distinctive Italian 
Soups 21 

Special Italian Novelties. 24 

Real German Dishes 31 

French Economy 37 

Some Delicious French 
Recipes 41 

Savory Oddities in "Na- 
tional" Dishes 51 

Some Cosmopolitan Menus 56 



DAINTY DISHES 

FROM FOREIGN LANDS 



THE BOOK'S REASON FOR EXISTENCE 

In the following pages may be found 
the result of some years of association 
with foreign cookery. A comprehensive 
cookbook of the various nations touched 
upon would be a stupendous affair, upon 
which I have no intention of engaging. 
These recipes are all simple, wholesome 
and cheap; and I believe that the majority 
will be new to the average American 
cook. They are not wholly vegetarian, 
but it will be observed that many so-called 
meat dishes are really half vegetable, and 
that under no condition of wealth does 
the Latin eat as much meat as his Teu- 
tonic neighbor. The prevalence of Vege- 



8 DAINTY DISHES 

tarianism seems to me the natural revolt 
against this excessive meat-eating which, 
in the past, at least, has characterized 
Americans and English. 

The Roast Beef of Old England may 
be all very well, from a sentimental stand- 
point, but it is no wonder that some sensi- 
tive persons take to "grass," after con- 
fronting too many of these large bleed- 
ing, steaming lumps of almost raw meat. 
Nor is it surprising that New Engend- 
ers gravitate from an ungodly quantity 
of pie, doughnuts, cake and beans to an 
equally ungodly amount of Cambric Tea. 

These extremes are not found in our 
Latin and Oriental neighbors, who eat 
an enormous variety of foods, and seem 
to keep a better balance-sheet with na- 
ture than do we. 

I have, therefore, gradually incorpor- 
ated into my daily life, the habits of eat- 
ing of French, Germans, Italians, Swiss, 
and even Chinese; and it occurred to me 
that others might be interested in the 
process. I have found my health and that 
of my family improve under this man- 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 9 

agement; while the simple fact of eating 
the dishes of The World has seemed to 
bring us into closer sympathy with man- 
kind, even in its most foreign guise. 

I have no wish to set up a system of 
diet, or to pose in the light of an instruc- 
tor ; but simply give the results of my own 
observations for what they are worth. 

I have omitted many distinctive dishes 
because they are seldom liked by Ameri- 
cans ; and, in some instances, because they 
are already well known. 



II 

THE SALADS OF ITALY 

It is to Italy that we owe the most 
healthful and corrective of foods — i. e., 
salad. And by salad I do not mean the 
abominations of meat, fish, or potato, 
smeared with indifferent oil, mustard and 
egg, which often do duty for that viand; 
or the still more awful things occasion- 
ally perpetrated in its name; such, for 
instance, as grapefruit, dressed with 
salt, pepper and vinegar, smothered in 
whipped cream and topped with sugared 
currants, which I once saw eaten in a New 
York hotel, — but crisp, green vegetables, 
dressed with a mixture, the chief ingred- 
ient of which is the sweet, golden oil of 
Italy. When people tell me that they 
cannot eat oil, I know it is because thev 

•/ 

have always had either French oil (which 
tastes as if destined for the sewing ma- 
chine, instead of for the stomach), or the 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 11 

various cotton-seed decoctions feloniously 
naming the aristocratic olive as their 
progenitor. 

Pure olive oil, made as only the Ital- 
ians know how to make it, will not stick 
to the roof of your mouth, and its taste, 
when united to food, is indescribably de- 
licious. Eaten once a day, it is Nature's 
own substitute for purgative medicines. 
Its constant use will give a clear, healthy 
skin; a tablespoonful, twice a day, will 
correct an acid stomach; used in massage, 
it will impart beauty to the form; rubbed 
on the scalp, will yield a glossy growth of 
hair; hot, and applied to the throat on a 
rag, will loosen a cold. It is an amazing 
thing that so universally useful an article 
should remain comparatively unknown in 
the United States. 

Italian oil is to be procured at nearly 
all high class provision stores; if your 
local grocer does not keep it, he can al- 
ways get it for you through his whole- 
sale agents. Those who live in the large 
cities should seek out the Italian Quar- 



12 DAINTY DISHES 

ter, and buy their spaghetti, Roman and 
Parmesan cheese, and olive oil, in an Ital- 
ian grocery, where they may be procured 
of a better quality, for less money, than 
anywhere else. 

Salads, with the exception of tomatoes, 
should lie in cold water about half an hour 
before they are wanted, and should then 
be dried, leaf by leaf, with a clean napkin, 
until not a drop of moisture remains. 
The dressing should be made at the table, 
as it is better if fresh. Besides, its prepar- 
ation is a dainty and graceful achievement, 
and affords the diners a pleasant moment 
in which to rest and talk, after the heartier 
food has been eaten. The implements re- 
quired are two bowls, large and small, the 
one for the salad itself, and the other to 
make the dressing in ; a large wooden fork 
and spoon; pepper, salt, mustard, vinegar 
and olive oil. A great many additions 
are made to this dressing by various peo- 
ple whose depraved palates make them 
long for variety, but anything added to 
it is but an impertinence to its simple per- 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 13 

fection. If educated up to it, you may 
rub with cheese or garlic, the plates on 
which the salad is to be served, but this de- 
pends entirely on individual taste. 

The following are the proportions for 
dressing one medium head of lettuce, or 
its equivalent in other salads: 

One-fourth teaspoonful of pepper. 
One-third teaspoonful of salt. 
One-quarter teaspoonful of mustard. 
Three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Four tablespoonfuls of oil. 

Mix the pepper and salt together, first, 
in the small bowl ; using the spoon or fork 
of wood for that purpose. Then mix in 
the mustard thoroughly, so that pepper, 
salt and mustard are indistinguishable; 
and add the vinegar, which should be, in 
turn, thoroughly mixed. Lastly, the oil 
is to be poured in, a little at a time, and 
the whole stirred in one direction until it 
appears slightly thickened. Pour this 
mixture over the salad in the large bowl, 



14 DAINTY DISHES 

and toss it lightly about until thoroughly 
saturated. 

Do not, oh, do not commit the barbar- 
ism of cutting with steel or silver the deli- 
cate, crisp leaves, but eat them with your 
fingers. The ability to do this without 
daubing your bosom or making a spec- 
tacle of yourself is the last touch of cos- 
mopolitanism possible to a diner! 

The following are the chief vegetables 
which are ranked as purely salads: 

Lettuce, Escarole, Dandelion, Endive, 
Chicory and Romaine. 

Then there are the vegetables which are 
used in a variety of ways, but which are 
also excellent raw or cooked, and used 
with salad dressing: 

Onions, peppers, wax beans, cabbage, 
beets, tomatoes, string beans, cauliflower, 
celery and cucumbers. 

All these may be combined with each 
other, in an endless variety of ways. 

Salads should be eaten with a piece of 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 15 

dry, crusty bread, as is the Italian custom, 
as this prevents the vinegar from striking 
the palate unpleasantly. Bread and salad, 
alone, make an ideal lunch for a hot day. 



Ill 



THE ITALIAN PASTES 

The various pastes known as Spa- 
ghetti, Macaroni, Vermicelli, etc., make 
the foundation of many dishes, which 
have the virtue of combining the greatest 
amount of nutriment with the least 
amount of cost. 

Spaghetti is more attractive than Maca- 
roni, as it does not look so coarse, but the 
ingredients of all pastes are about the 
same. None of them should be broken 
before cooking, as the long sticks are 
much easier to manage while cooking and 
more attractive when served. Macaroni 
should be cut before being served, as it 
is too large to eat otherwise, but spa- 
ghetti is much easier to handle without 
cutting, despite the apparent intricacy of 
the process, which is as follows: take a 
large dessert spoon in the left hand, and 
in the right a fork, catch a few strands of 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 17 

the spaghetti on the end of the fork, 
press its point against the bowl of the 
spoon and begin to wind. In a second 
you will have your fork covered with neat 
serpentine coils, which you will not find 
difficult to carry to your mouth. 

If possible, the Italian pastes should be 
used, as they are much superior to Ger- 
man or domestic manufacture. 

There are a bewildering array of paste 
recipes, nearly every town and hamlet in 
Italy having its pet combination; but the 
variations are not great, and I give here- 
with the principal ways of preparing spa- 
ghetti and macaroni. 

Plain Boiled Spaghetti 

Fill a deep kettle with boiling water, 
salted. Take a large handful of the sticks 
and place one end in the water, pushing 
them down in the pot without breaking, 
as they soften sufficiently to allow you to 
do so. Boil exactly twenty minutes. 
Take out, drain, and dress with melted 
butter. 



18 DAINTY DISHES 

Boiled Spaghetti With Cheese 

This is the same as the preceding re- 
cipe, except that grated Parmesan or Ro- 
man cheese is added, in large quantities. 

Spaghetti au Gratin 

Boil spaghetti as above. Serve with 
the following dressing: 

Heat one half -pint of milk, and when 
it is just at the point of boiling, add two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, rubbed to a paste 
in a cup of cold milk. Have a little 
chopped parsley ready and a little grated 
Parmesan cheese, and add them, with a 
lump of butter, pepper and salt. Let it 
boil up once and pour over the spaghetti. 

Spaghetti au Gratin, With Dried Beef 

To the preceding recipe, add dried 
beef, pulled into tiny strips, and an egg, 
well beaten. 

Spaghetti With Beef Dressing 

Cook the spaghetti in the usual way. 
When done, pour over it the following 
sauce : 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 19 

Chop fine three onions and two green 
peppers, and fry them in butter gently. 
When they are beginning to brown, add 
one-half pound of lean beef, cut in small 
pieces, and two bay leaves, one-half can 
of tomatoes, salt and pepper. Allow this 
to simmer at least two hours. Add a lit- 
tle water or some soup stock, if it should 
get too dry. 

Spaghetti, American Style 

This is not really an Italian way of 
cooking spaghetti, but it is very good. 

Boil a pound of spaghetti twenty min- 
utes. Line a large baking dish with to- 
matoes, seasoning with pepper and salt, 
and sprinkle thickly with American 
"store" cheese, cut into small cubes. Put 
a layer of spaghetti over this, and alter- 
nate with tomatoes until the pan is full. 
Bake in a moderate oven one hour. 

Macaroni With Sausages 

Boil macaroni thirty minutes. In the 
meantime, boil together half a can of to- 
matoes, a half a cupful of melted butter, 



20 DAINTY DISHES 

three sliced onions and two or three beef 
sausages (or pork, if they are not too 
fat). Drain the macaroni, mix it thor- 
oughly with the onions and tomatoes, 
sprinkle the top with either Italian or 
American cheese and bake one hour. 

Macaroni In Milk 

This dish is quite familiar to the Amer- 
ican cook, but it is seldom good, because 
the macaroni is boiled too long and baked 
too little. 

Boil macaroni exactly thirty minutes, 
as you would spaghetti, taking care that 
the water is really boiling when you put 
it in, and does not stop. 

Drain the macaroni thoroughly, butter 
a granite or earthenware baking dish and 
pour into it a pint or more of rich milk. 
Drop into this the macaroni, cover the top 
with grated cheese, dot it with butter and 
bake one hour. If these simple direc- 
tions are faithfully carried out, the result 
will be quite different from the usual 
soggy, sticky stuff produced under this 
name. 



IV 



SOME DISTINCTIVE ITALIAN SOUPS 

Paste of various kinds has quite a part 
in Italian soups, which are usually thick 
and rather too heavy for ideal dinner 
soups, but excellent for lunch, and as a 
meal by themselves. 

One of this class may be found in the 
following : 

Cabbage Soup 

Make a clear stock by gently simmer- 
ing two pounds of beef for two hours, 
skimming off the fat as it arises. ( If left 
in till the soup is done, this meat is very 
good, sliced cold.) Chop a small head of 
cabbage rather fine and boil it an hour. 
Twenty minutes before the soup is 
wanted, drop into it a large quantity of 
macaroni, or the ribbon-shaped paste 
which comes especially for soups, if you 
can get it. 



22 DAINTY DISHES 

Fish Soup 

This is used in many countries, but I 
think the Italians make it best. 

Preserve the water in which you have 
boiled fish, with a little of the fish itself, 
and any stuffing or gravy you may have 
had with it. Boil for two hours gently, 
then put in four large potatoes, sliced ; two 
carrots, cut fine; four leeks; a large piece 
of parsley, chopped, and a couple of bay 
leaves. Cook these vegetables for half an 
hour. Ten minutes before the soup is 
wanted, add two dozen or less of small 
oysters. 

Milanese Soup 

This is an elaborate affair, and is quite 
sufficient for a complete meal. 

Make the stock, as usual, with a good 
piece of lean beef, but take the meat out 
before putting anything else into the 
stock. Chop very lean ham and bacon to- 
gether, enough to make a good sized cup- 
ful when done; cut a cabbage into shreds; 
peel and slice two very small onions. Put 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 23 

all these into the stock, and add half a cup 
of tomatoes, a cup of peas, a few string 
beans, and some asparagus tips. A large 
tablespoonf ul of celery, cut fine, and a cup 
of rice, are to be added thirty minutes be- 
fore serving. The Italians use grated 
cheese in this soup, but most Americans 
prefer it without. 



SPECIAL ITALIAN NOVELTIES 

Polentas are of two kinds; those which 
are practically our fried mush, and those 
which are meat balls, with dressing. 
The first kind are made as follows: 
Into a quart and a half of boiling, 
salted water, slowly stir two cups of white 
corn meal, using your fingers to sift it 
with. Boil slowly an hour, on the back of 
the stove. This can be used hot, with 
tomato sauce, or cold and sliced, fried in 
a deep kettle of boiling olive oil. 

Polentas of Meat 

Chop the amount of beef which you 
want to use, or put it through a meat 
grinder. To this add one egg, well 
beaten; one large onion, chopped; some 
parsley, and a few bread crumbs. Roll 
the meat into balls, and place them gently 
in the following sauce: 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 25 

Boil together one onion, two bay leaves, 
a can of tomatoes and two green peppers 
in a half a pint of water. When the onion 
is soft, press the whole thing through a 
colander, add a piece of butter, and return 
it to the fire. Nearly an hour is required 
for the meat to cook, and perhaps a little 
more, if, as is right, it has not been per- 
mitted to do more than simmer. 

Pour the remaining thick sauce over the 
balls and serve with a garnishing of 
watercress. 

Fritto Misto 

This is a dish which has no equivalent 
in our cooking, but once introduced would 
be very popular, as nearly everyone likes 
it at once. Take a few chicken livers (or 
if you cannot get them, small lamb 
hearts), a head of cauliflower, some as- 
paragus tips and a dozen large mush- 
rooms. Boil these half an hour in some 
stock which has been made from lamb or 
veal ; or in water and butter. When fairly 
well done, take them all out, drain them, 



26 DAINTY DISHES 

dip them in a batter made of egg, flour 
and milk, and fry them in hot olive oil 
until they are a golden brown. The mo- 
ment that any piece gets done, it should 
at once be taken out of the fat and al- 
lowed to drain on a piece of brown paper. 

(At first sight, this cooking in olive oil 
seems expensive ; but it is not, as the same 
oil can be used again and again to fry 
things in, each batch of stuff only gaining 
in subtlety of flavor from its predeces- 
sors.) 

A Novel Dish 

Another dish which has so many names 
that I am afraid to choose one, is a mix- 
ture of spinach, celery, cauliflower, potato, 
asparagus; in fact, anything which you 
happen to have on hand in the way of 
vegetables. Cook these until well done, 
and bake them in a deep dish, alternating 
the layers of vegetables with grated 
cheese. Half an hour's baking of this 
combination will produce something new 
to most palates, besides affording a novel 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 27 

way to use up odds and ends of vege- 
tables. 

A Sublimated Hash 

Hash is truly a cosmopolitan dish, for 
it is known the world over. One of the 
forms which it takes may be found in 
Greek, Spanish, Turkish and Italian 
kitchens, and it is prepared as follows: 

Make a soft hash of any meat that you 
have, flavoring it with onions if it is beef, 
but not if it is chicken or lamb ; spread the 
mixture on small, firm cabbage leaves, 
roll them up and tie with a piece of string, 
place them closely together in a shallow 
pan, cover with soup stock, or water and 
butter, and boil about half an hour. If 
you have used raw meat, then they must, 
of course, cook longer. Thicken the liquor 
in which they were boiled, pour over the 
little balls, and serve with some little gar- 
nish of vegetable, such as a few asparagus 
tips, or peas. 

Resotto 

Resotto is used in the north of Italy as 
the pastes are used in the south, and is, 



28 DAINTY DISHES 

from a dietetic and economic standpoint, 
almost a perfect article. To make it, 
brown a cup of rice in about half a cup 
of hot butter or beef drippings ; when the 
rice is well browned, put in a pint of soup 
stock, or water if preferred, and an onion 
chopped fine; ten minutes afterward put 
in eight tomatoes or a can of them, and let 
the whole simmer for an hour. Season 
with salt and pepper and a little grated 
cheese. If preferred, a few chicken livers 
may be added to this, but it is excellent as 
a vegetable dish, alone. 

Italian Baked Tomatoes 

Tomatoes baked after the Italian 
fashion are excellent. Peel a number of 
large, firm tomatoes, line the bottom of a 
deep baking dish with them; pour a little 
olive oil over them, and salt and pepper 
and sprinkle with bread crumbs; continue 
this process until the dish is full, and bake 
about an hour. An odd and attractive 
flavor may be added to this by the addition 
of two bay leaves, parsley, and an onion 
or a few leeks chopped exceedingly fine. 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 29 

An Italian Fish Sauce 

I fear that most of the sauces preferred 
by Italians are rather too hot for Amer- 
ican palates, but I have eaten and cooked 
one which is liked by many. It is best on 
boiled fish. Slice an onion and fry brown 
in one half a cup of olive oil, add one-half 
can of tomatoes, a clove, a bay leaf, pep- 
per and salt, and half a glass of wine, 
preferably claret of a good quality. 
Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
and pour over the fish. 

A Cosmopolitan Dish 

A famous fish dish which (like most of 
the nicest things in the world) is claimed 
by many nations is the following: Fry 
a pound of thin salmon cutlets until 
brown ; boil some fish, such as a small blue 
fish ; pull it to pieces and stir it with a fork 
into paste; add pepper, salt, a few drops 
of lemon juice and two well beaten eggs. 
Line a baking dish with a thin pastry, 
spread some minced fish over it, place the 
salmon cutlets on top, and pack around 



30 DAINTY DISHES 

and between them mushrooms and small 
oysters. Cover with a layer of the minced 
fish, and strips of pastry, and bake three- 
quarters of an hour. This, while elaborate, 
is very wholesome, and is a complete meal 
in itself. 



VI 



REAL GERMAN DISHES 

German cooking I have found to be 
rather greasy, but by slightly modifying 
some of their recipes I have succeeded in 
pleasing my own palate without greatly 
offending my stomach. 

The ordinary German soup is an awe- 
some thing to tackle, but here is one which 
is simple and nutritious. 

A Nutritious Soup 

Soak white beans over night. In the 
morning let them boil gently for two 
hours; when nearly done, add a dozen 
young carrots, peeled and cut small. 
When both carrots and beans are done, 
rub them through a colander, add a large 
lump of butter, season with pepper and 
salt. 



S2 DAINTY DISHES 

Bean Soup 

Bean soup is made in the same way, ex- 
cept that the carrots are omitted and a 
couple of onions added. This addition of 
onion makes quite a difference, since the 
ordinary bean soup is without their savori- 
ness. 

Potato and Onion Soup 

Potato and onion soup is made by boil- 
ing six large potatoes and six large onions 
together until they are very soft; thicken 
with two tablespoonfuls of flour in a pint 
of milk ; parsley is very nice, but not neces- 
sary, and a large piece of butter is an 
improvement. 

Liver Dumplings 

I suppose everyone has heard of the 
liver dumplings, "leber Kloesse" as they 
are called, for which German cookery is 
celebrated, but I have found so few who 
knew how to make them that I give the 
recipe : 

Beat four eggs thoroughly, stir them 
into half a cup of butter, and beat into 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 33 

the cream thus obtained, half a pound of 
raw liver and a quarter of a pound of 
bacon, chopped fine, half a loaf of grated 
bread, some sage, parsley and thyme, and 
salt and pepper. If the bread is not suf- 
ficient to make this into a firm paste, add 
a little more and form it into about six 
balls, which should be arranged upon a 
heavy plate, and cooked in boiling water 
or weak soup. These are really delicious, 
especially with potatoes in any form. 

Modified Sauer-Braten 

Sauer-Braten is seldom liked by Amer- 
icans, as it is soaked in vinegar for twelve 
hours before being cooked, and is really 
disagreeable to any but an accustomed 
palate, but I have managed to modify it 
as follows so that it is relished by almost 
anyone : 

Try out some fine beef suet over a 
slow fire, and when it is very hot drop 
into it whatever quantity of beef you wish 
to use — three pounds of the round is a 



34 DAINTY DISHES 

good cut; keep turning this until it is 
thoroughly brown, and put on the back 
of the stove to simmer (or turn the gas 
low) . Peel and slice six large onions, and 
lay them over the top of the meat. Have 
ready a little cheesecloth bag and into this 
put a dozen bay leaves and half a dozen 
cloves which have been soaked in vinegar 
for about eight hours. Drop the bag, 
after tying it tightly, into the pot; add 
four cups of hot water, and simmer four 
hours. When done, take out the bag, 
thicken the liquor with three tablespoons 
of flour and pour it over the meat. 

Stuffed Onions 

Stuffed onions are good, either as a 
dish for a dinner, or as a complete lunch. 
To make them, peel onions which are 
large and firm, and scoop out the centers, 
as you would an apple for baking. Into 
this put some dressing, made of grated 
bread, sage, butter, pepper and salt, place 
the onions, after being stuffed, on a plat- 
ter, put a lump of butter on the top of 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 35 

each and bake an hour and a half, in a 
slow oven, basting frequently. 

German Pancakes 

German pancakes are good as a des- 
sert. Beat two eggs very light, add one 
half cup of milk, and stir in flour enough 
to make a very thin batter. Before thin- 
ning it very much, add a teaspoon of bak- 
ing powder and a pinch of salt. Bake 
this mixture, in the form of little griddle 
cakes, on a moderately hot griddle, and 
when done, drop currant or raspberry 
jelly in the center of each, roll them up, 
and serve with some more of the jelly. 

Pickled Beets 

The Germans are especially fond of 
pickled beets as a relish, and while they 
are very appetizing, they are apt to cause 
indigestion, because of their excessive 
sourness. An improvement on this is to 
boil the beets, allow them to get cold and 
serve them with salad dressing. 



m DAINTY DISHES 

Outside of the cooked dishes there are 
a few things which we might learn from 
the Germans: such for instance, as their 
use of whole wheat bread, and of the al- 
most black bread which they eat with 
cheese. In the German provision shops 
may be found many appetizing kinds of 
dried and pickled fish which are excellent 
to begin a dinner with, or for a lunch. 
Frankfurters, I suppose everyone knows. 
The imported ones are best, since the in- 
spection of sausage factories is much 
more rigid in Germany than here. They 
are most wholesome boiled (a process re- 
quiring fifteen minutes), and are good 
eaten with sauerkraut or with boiled rice. 
I have not given the recipe for sauer- 
kraut, because that is too well known to 
need introduction. 



VII 

FRENCH ECONOMY 

France has given us the form of din- 
ing, rather than any one form of cooking ; 
but in adopting the dishes of other na- 
tions, she imparts a delicacy to them 
which is all her own. Then, too, the meth- 
ods of the French cook are quite different 
from those of other nations ; less material, 
more touched with a feeling for that 
which is beautiful and dainty. In the 
typical cuisine there is little of the 
tremendous waste which goes on too fre- 
quently in our Saxon and Teutonic kitch- 
ens. Every drop of gravy, of dripping, 
of vegetable, is kept; small earthenware 
pots are used, in which are poured, sepa- 
rately, the fat from lamb, beef and pork. 
Every morsel of bread is preserved; toast 
which comes from the table is cut into 
small cubes for soup; every mouthful 
which is edible and wholesome goes into 



38 DAINTY DISHES 

the mouths of the family, instead of into 
the garbage pail. 

It is in arranging a dinner that the 
French chef is most happy, for his art is 
largely that of selection and good judg- 
ment. It is to him that we owe the ar- 
rangement of soup, fish, entree, roast, 
salad, dessert and coffee, which, if all are 
partaken of in moderation only, is the 
most ideal meal of the day. A French 
family, in ordinary circumstances, would 
never think of having beefsteak or lamb 
chops, with a liberal supply of potatoes 
and perhaps a casual vegetable, as a din- 
ner; yet in half the American homes, 
even of those who are well-to-do, this com- 
bination will be served three times, at 
least, during each week. This is not be- 
cause the French are wiser than we, but 
because they are more economical. The 
French housewife, with a piece of butter 
and a handful of herbs, will make a most 
appetizing soup, costing, perhaps, ten 
cents for a family of four. After this 
will come a little entree, just a mouthful 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 39 

of savory stew or some vegetables taste- 
fully arranged in little individual pies. 
Having taken away the first hunger, 
there will appear one lamb chop apiece, 
perhaps, with a few green peas, or a small 
roast, garnished with plenty of green 
vegetables. The salad comes next, meet- 
ing the craving of the stomach for some- 
thing a little tart and green. Cheese and 
crackers in winter and fruit in summer 
complete the meal, "demi-tasse" (liter- 
ally, half a cup) being added by those 
who like coffee, and with whom it agrees. 
Each course is designed for some special 
purpose. The soup warms the stomach 
and gently stimulates it. The entree, usu- 
ally light, takes away the first keen ap- 
petite, and prevents the diner from eat- 
ing too much of the roast. Salad is su- 
perlatively healthful, and the dressing 
used on it excellent for taking all greasy 
feeling from the mouth. Cheese, eaten 
when the stomach is full, promotes diges- 
tion, while fruit is both a delight and a 
duty to eat. This custom of serving the 



40 DAINTY DISHES 

meal in courses, each one of which is 
cleared away before the next is brought 
on, adds refinement to the process of eat- 
ing, and almost enforces slow eating, 
since large quantities cannot be had at a 
time. Persons keeping no servants may 
readily overcome the difficulty of the var- 
ious changes by having a serving table 
within reaching distance, on which the 
soiled dishes may be placed, and the wait- 
ing courses kept. 



VIII 
SOME DELICIOUS FRENCH RECIPES 

I do not think that the French have so 
many distinctive dishes as other na- 
tions, but have, rather, a certain style of 
cooking all things. The recipes which 
I give, herewith, convey something of the 
French spirit. 

French Vegetable Soup 

Brown a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, in a deep pot; add about a quart of 
water, in which vegetables have been 
boiled (potatoes, cauliflower, onions, etc.) . 
Chop a handful of "soup greens," pars- 
ley, celery, carrot, onion, and other things 
of that sort, put into the water and boil 
gently an hour and a half. 

Sorrel Soup 

Thoroughly clean a large bunch of sor- 
rel leaves and cut or tear into shreds; put 



42 DAINTY DISHES 

to cook in cold water, with one large po- 
tato sliced fine. Cook half an hour. Just 
before serving pour in half a pint of milk, 
add a large piece of butter, pepper and 
salt. This will be found to be a real nov- 
elty and most delicious. 

Clear Onion Soup 

When making lamb stew, or boiling 
veal, save the liquor and dilute with wa- 
ter; or, boil half a pound of lamb in one 
and a half quarts of water. Into this 
drop six very large or twelve small on- 
ions, peeled and sliced. Boil gently two 
hours. Press through a colander or a 
cheese-cloth bag, and serve with little 
squares of toast. This will be found deli- 
cate enough for invalids, and also a fine 
dinner soup. 

Tomato Bisque 

The usual way of making this soup 
seems insipid to one who has ever tasted 
the genuine French product, which is as 
follows : 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 43 

Slice and fry brown in some butter, a 
large onion. Now take about a pint of 
water in which vegetables have been 
boiled (preferably a mixture of potato, 
onion, asparagus or cauliflower) and 
drop in one bay leaf and two cloves, with 
the previously browned onion. Press a 
can of tomatoes through a colander and 
put into the pot. Leave it to simmer an 
hour. Three minutes before the soup is 
wanted, thicken with two tablespoonfuls of 
flour rubbed into a pint of milk. This 
will be found well worth the extra trou- 
ble. 

French Peasant Soup 

This is used by the working classes and 
country people as a meal in itself, and 
is to be recommended as a lunch. 

Peel and slice a quart of potatoes and 
allow them to lie in very cold water an 
hour, after which they are to be boiled 
three quarters of an hour, or until so soft 
that they can be readily mashed. Do not 
pour off the water, but mash the potatoes 



44 DAINTY DISHES 

in it, using a colander, if necessary, to 
get out the lumps. Return the potatoes 
to the fire, add a little more hot water, 
and drop into them eight or twelve leeks, 
which have been previously peeled and 
sliced lengthwise into small strips. Boil 
for fifteen minutes, add a large lump of 
butter and pepper and salt. 

Celery Soup 

The leaves and stalks of celery which 
is bought for table use should be reserved 
for soup. Chop the celery thus obtained 
very fine, and boil for one half an hour 
in water, preferably that in which veg- 
etables have been cooked. If you haven't 
this, then add a small, minced onion to 
the celery. Strain out all the celery, when 
it is thoroughly soft, and thicken the 
liquor which remains with two table- 
spoonfuls of flour rubbed into a pint of 
milk, and add butter, pepper and salt. 

Soup Royale 

Boil a pound of lamb for two hours in 
two quarts of water, skimming off all the 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 45 

fat which arises. Take out all the meat 
and drop the following mixture into it, 
by the tablespoonful or teaspoonful: 
chop six clams and a cup of sweet corn 
together; beat an egg into the result, add 
pepper and salt. 

French Veal Cutlets 

The cutlet should be thin, so that it will 
not be raw if lightly cooked. Peel a 
dozen leeks and fry them gently in but- 
ter. Scrape four bunches of young car- 
rots, boil them for twenty minutes, drain 
and add to the leeks. In the meantime, 
fry the cutlet in a shallow, hot pan, in 
its own fat, and place over and around it 
the leeks and carrots. This will be found 
a great improvement over the ordinary 
breaded cutlet. 

In general, all French meats are 
cooked with vegetables, a point being 
made that the flavor of the latter shall 
permeate the former, but simplicity is the 
rule and not the exception. The highly 



46 DAINTY DISHES 

spiced and condimented dishes which pass 
as "French" in expensive restaurants are 
usually the result of the cook's anxiety to 
conceal the venerable age of the meat; or 
of the demands made by depraved tastes. 
The following is a good type of the 
psuedo-Yrench menu, which is clipped 
from a New York paper, under the name 
of a famous French chef — it is needless 
to say that he is not chronicled as eating 
it himself! 

Fresh Astrakhan Caviar 

Tomatoes stuffed with 
crabmeat and cucumbers, dressed with 

Mayonnaise 

Jellied Squab 

Curacoa Sherbet Clam Cocktail 

Sea Bass in White Wine 

Salad Saratoga 

(Roniaine, oranges, bananas, strawberries and 
green peppers, garnished with salad dressing) 

Champagne 
Coffee * Liqueurs 

There! That's the sort of thing which 
the average American citizen considers 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 47 

typically French, and it is no wonder that 
he sticks to beafsteak and pie in prefer- 
ence. As a matter of fact, such a menu 
as that is gotten up only for people who 
have more money than experience, and 
who have eaten and drunk so much that 
they no longer have normal appetites. 
The tomatoes in this dinner are a horror, 
the salad a nightmare, the meat and fish 
unnatural, and everything out of its log- 
ical place. In comparison with this, I 
offer a few cosmopolitan menus, to be 
found at the end of the book, which are 
thoroughly typical of the countries which 
they represent, and are not more simple 
than those actually in use by well-to-do 
people. 

Truffles and mushrooms are consid- 
ered, rightly, to distinguish French cook- 
ery, but too often they are bedeviled out 
of all resemblance to their original suc- 
culent selves by people who imagine that 
they must be cooked elaborately. Here 
are a few recipes which are simple, and 
genuinely French. 



48 DAINTY DISHES 

Mushrooms and Asparagus Tips On Toast 

Peel a pound, or whatever quantity is 
wanted, of mushrooms, and fry them 
lightly in butter. When they are brown, 
add a pint of cream, and a number of 
asparagus tips. Let it boil up just once, 
add pepper, salt and a little celery salt, 
and serve on toast. 

Escalloped Mushrooms 

Trim and peel very large mushrooms, 
and fry them in olive oil for a few min- 
utes. Cover the bottom of a baking dish 
with finely chopped raw ham, then a few 
of the mushrooms, with chopped onions 
and parsley, alternating until the pan is 
full ; finish off with a sprinkling of grated 
bread crumbs, dot with butter and bake 
about an hour in a slow oven. 

Mushrooms With Chicken Livers 

Mushrooms with chicken livers is a 
dish literally fit for a King; to make it, 
take a dozen (or as many as you want) 
of chicken livers, and fry them with one 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 49 

or two strips of very thin, very sweet ba- 
con; when the livers are just turning 
brown, add at least a dozen mushrooms, 
peeled, and wiped very dry. Simmer five 
minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft, 
and serve on very hot toast. Into the 
grease left in the pan drop a tablespoonful 
of flour, and let it brown, stirring con- 
stantly. Make this into a gravy by pour- 
ing into the pan, very quickly, a cup of 
cold milk; let it boil up once and pour 
over the toast, livers, bacon and mush- 
rooms. 

Steamed Mushrooms 

There is also a way of cooking mush- 
rooms under a bell-shaped glass cup; 
these cups are hard to get in America, but 
very thick, strong glasses can be made to 
do service. Peel and drop into hot butter 
as many mushrooms as you have, prefer- 
ably not too large ones; let them cook in 
the pan only a minute — just long enough 
to get thoroughly hot, but not done; now 
place the mushrooms, with the loss of the 



50 DAINTY DISHES 

least fraction of time, upon very hot toast, 
and turn the glasses over them, close to 
the fire. In five minutes the steam from 
the toast and the mushrooms, themselves, 
will have completed the cooking. This 
is the most wholesome way in which mush- 
rooms can be eaten, but several trials will 
be necessarv before the "knack" is ac- 
quired. 

Fresh truffles cannot be procured in 
this country, but the canned ones are ex- 
cellent if used with beefsteak, any prep- 
aration of liver, or chicken; mushrooms, 
of course, are also fried with beefsteak 
and chicken, and impart a very delicate 
flavor to them. 



it 



IX 



SAVORY ODDITIES IN "NATIONAL" 

DISHES 

Spanish and Mexican cooking is so 
hot" that only a cast-iron throat and 
stomach can endure it; but it embraces a 
few savory and wholesome dishes. One of 
the most characteristic, eaten by rich and 
poor, is 

Fried Tomatoes 

Peel and slice four very large and 
firm tomatoes. Fry them in olive oil, 
adding one green pepper, chopped and 
seeded, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, 
salt and the tiniest drop of red pepper. 
This is delicious, eaten on bread, or as an 
adjunct to meat. 

Veal Hearts With Carrots 

Select small veal or lamb hearts; cut 
them into fine cubes, and drop into melted 
butter ; scrape a number of young carrots, 
cut into dice, and add to the hearts; cook 
together for thirty minutes, seasoning 



52 DAINTY DISHES 

with pepper and salt. This is an excel- 
lent entree. 

Olla Podrida 

This, and the recipe following, are 
national dishes of Spain: 

Clean and cut into joints a rabbit; boil 
it for an hour in a quart of water, with 
two bay leaves, and a sprig each of pars- 
ley, thyme, sage, and a pinch of mace. 
At the last moment, five minutes before 
it is done, add as many large oysters as 
you want, say a dozen or two. Take 
out the rabbit and oysters and arrange 
them on a very large platter, garnishing 
them with cauliflower, young onions, car- 
rots and green peppers which have all 
been boiled in one pot. Thicken the liquor 
remaining in the pot with flour and a 
little milk, and pour over the whole. 

Gaspacho 

Cut three onions into small pieces; 
slice three tomatoes, and as many green 
peppers, and add pepper and salt. Put 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 53 

these into a large bowl and pour some 
very cold, very clear water over them; 
make a salad dressing in a bowl and pour 
that in; then lay in the liquid four slices 
of very crisp bread, and let it stand on the 
ice all day. Despite the rather peculiar 
way of making this dish, it will be found 
delicious, especially on hot days. 

Spanish Baked Beans 

These are better, in some ways, than 
the famous Boston brand. 

Soak a quart of black beans (can be 
procured by any groceryman, though not 
usually kept in stock) in cold water over 
night. Parboil, and put in a crock with 
salt, pepper, brown sugar, half a tomato 
chopped fine, a tiny piece of garlic, and 
a small piece of fresh, lean pork. Bake 
four or five hours, in a slow oven. 

Chinese Chop-Suey 

Chinese Chop-suey, in a modified form, 
is liked by many people, who do not care 
for the native combination. 



54 DAINTY DISHES 

It is made as follows, and is very nearly 
the same as our Mongolian friends make, 
except that it is not so rich or so greasy. 
Fry very small pieces of pork and beef 
in beef fat, frying a number of finely 
sliced onions in the same pan. Secure 
from your Chinese laundry man, or from 
a Chinese grocery store, if you can find 
one, some bamboo sprouts, about a quar- 
. ter of a pound ; wash these and drop them 
into the pan with the meat and onions, 
and add a cup of very hot water; let it 
simmer for five minutes, and add at least 
a dozen stalks of white celery, cut into 
small squares, a small piece of garlic, 
grated, four tablespoonfuls of peanut 
oil, salt and pepper. Let this cook five 
minutes and serve with rice, boiled in the 
Chinese fashion; that is, washed, drained 
and dropped into boiling water, and al- 
lowed to cook only fifteen minutes. 

Swiss Roast 

Take two pounds of round steak, cut 
rather thick; fry it for five minutes in 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 55 

very hot butter, then drop into the pan 
half a can of tomatoes, and add two on- 
ions grated or minced. Let this simmer 
not less than two hours. 



X 



SOME COSMOPOLITAN MENUS 



(Italian) 




Anchovies 




Olives 


Radishes 


Cabbage Soup 




Beef Polentas 


Peas 


Salad of Romaine 




Gorgonzola Cheese 


Crackers 


Demi-Tasse 





(Italian) 

Salami * 

Leeks Radishes 

Spaghetti with Beef Sauce 

Thin slices of Cold Ham 

Asparagus, sprinkled with grated 

Parmesan Cheese 

Salad of Dandelion Leaves 

Neapolitan Ice Cream Demi-Tasse 



* Salami is a sausage similar to but much finer 
than Bologna. 



FROM FOREIGN LANDS 57 



(German) 

Carrot and Bean Soup 
Bismarck Herring Rye Bread 

Sauer Braten 
Potato Salad String Beans 

Pickled Beets 
Swiss Cheese Pumpernickel * 

Coffee, with sugar and milk 



(French) 

Clear Onion Soup 

Sardines French Bread 

Entree of Peas and Carrots 

in pasty cups 

Veal Cutlet with Leeks and Potatoes 

Lettuce Salad 

Camembert Cheese Toasted Crackers 

Demi-Tasse 



* Black bread. 



58 DAINTY DISHES 



(Mixed) 

Tomato Bisque 

Chicken Livers with Mushrooms 

Salmon Pasty Potatoes, baked 

Watercress and Chicory 
Brie Cheese Crusty French Bread 

Demi-Tasse 



(Mixed) 

French Peasant Soup 

Asparagus Tips on Toast 

Meat Balls in Cabbage Leaves 

Black Bread 

Wax Beans, used as Salad 

Cream Cheese and Currant Jelly 

Water Crackers 

Fruit 



THE MIND'S ATTAINMENT 

By URIEL BUCHANAN 



URIEL BUCHANAN is known throughout the country as a writer 
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THE CHAPTERS OF THE BOOK 

The Supreme Force Mental Control The Higher Life 

Man's Divinity The Sovereign Will Our Destiny 

Mysteries The Power of Silence Human Progress 

The Science of Individual Supremacy Divine Guidance 

Breath The Spirit of Youth A Lesson from Na- 

Self-Mastery Mental Influences ture 

The Law of Sugges- Elements of Success Aspiration 

tion Demand and Supply The Highest Goal 

Each chapter contains a number of sub-topics. Here are the sub- 
headings of Chapter III: 

CHAPTER III. MYSTERIES. The three brains — The mind a globe 
of light — Evolution of the brain cells — How to increase the capacity of 
the brain — Active and passive attention — How to intensify the mind ac- 
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The Law of thought transference — How to receive and interpret a 
thought-wave. 

The book is 6 inches by 9 inches, bound in purple silk cloth with gold 
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clear type on good paper. Price ** *v" pUoipdlu 



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A Course in Yoga Philosophy 

By URIEL BUCHANAN 

(Disciple of Swami Vivekananda, Ghandi, etc.) 

Published In 12 booklets (paper bound). Entire course $1.50 

Each book contains one complete lesson, with a set of test questions 
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Here are the contents of the first six lessons. The last six are still 
more advanced: 

THE FIRST LESSON explains what the Vedanta Philosophy is, what 
the Yogis of India teach, and the object of the practice of Yoga; shows 
where physical and spiritual vibrations are born and analyzes the five 
mental states that must be attained in the mastery of Yoga. As a part 
of this lesson the student is requested to enter into the solemn Form of 
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THE SECOND LESSON contains an explanation of Yoga Philosophy 
and its eight stages. The student is in this lesson instructed in the use 
and meaning of certain occult terms which must be mastered for the 
better understanding of the truths presented now and later in the course 
— for instance, what is meant by the astral body, also the astral light, 
karma, magic, etc., etc. The student is in this lesson given an insight 
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and explains the five Tatwas. After which we study the seven creative 
principles. The physiological changes in the brain cells as the result of 
moral, mental and spiritual development are outlined and emphasized. 



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THOUGHT FORCE 

IN BUSINESS AND EVERY DAY LIFE 

By William Walker Atkinson 

An intensely practical book of instruction in the every-day application 
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The Heart of the New Thought 

By ELLA WHEELER WILCOX 

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(16) 


(17) 


(18) 


(19) 


(20) 


(21) 
(22) 



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Dividends. (Thought invest- 
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Royalty. (Our divine inher- 
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Invincibility. (The irresistible 
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of your own. ) 

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(28) The Breath. (A lesson on deep 

breathing and its value.) 

(29) Generosity. (The law of giv- 

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perity.) 

(30) Woman's Opportunity. (A 

talk on Pre-natalism. ) 

(31) Balance. (Common-sense in 

New Thought.) 



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SELF-HEALING 

BY THOUGHT FORCE 



A Series of Lessons in Self-Healing: 
Practical — Plain — Powerful! 

By WILLIAM WALKER ATKINSON 

Author of "Thought Vibration" 
"Thought Force in Business and 
Everyday Life," "Memory Cul- 
ture," etc. 
There are two or three primary physical ills and from 
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FORCE Mr. Atkinson takes up these primary conditions 
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himself with the absolutely irrefutable principles which the few mas- 
ters of the subject have carefully worked out and verified in many 
decades of research, study and comparison. The formation of in- 
dividual letters, of capitals, the spacing, margins, shading, dotting and 
crossing, slant and signature, each have a tale to tell of trait, ten- 
dency or pronounced characteristic. 

The book contains 202 facsimile specimens of penmanship, illustrating 
various peculiarities, tendencies, short-comings or special talents; show- 
ing the student, by illustration, just how to detect in the turn of a letter 
or other betraying stroke of the pen an evidence of the character of 
the writer. 

Many of these specimens represent the handwriting of people you know 
by reputation, and are doubly interesting for that reason. 

A book which will be a guide to your own capabilities, a 
side-light on the character of your friends and acquaintances 
— or a text-book by which you can fit yourself to become a 
successful graphologist. 

Price $2.00 Postpaid. 

THE LIBRARY SHELF 

LOUISE RADFORD WELLS, Manager 
850-854 McClurg Building CHICAGO, U. S. A. 



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